Syrah is New Zealand’s seventh most planted grape variety. In 2023, we had 443 hectares of producing syrah vines.
That figure is dwarfed by the nearly 40,000 hectares planted in Australia in 2015 when the vines were last counted.
Across the Tasman, the locals call the vine “shiraz”. Same vine, different name.
What’s the difference between Aussie shiraz and Kiwi syrah? The answer is “rotundone”.
When syrah is grown in cooler climates it is more likely to have a peppery flavour from a sesquiterpene called rotundone. Hence NZ syrah tends to be pepperier than Aussie shiraz, which is generally grown in warmer conditions.
If you don’t get a peppery taste from NZ syrah, don’t worry: about 20% of the population don’t detect the flavour in rotundone.
Syrah is “on the up” in this country as a growing number of critics recognise that the best wines are of truly international standard.
Hawke’s Bay and Waiheke Island are syrah’s hotspots, although good wines are also produced in Martinborough, Marlborough and North Canterbury.
I have selected a handful of NZ syrah labels that have consistently performed with distinction over a number of years.
If you plan to buy a quantity of different labels, it might be worth inviting a few friends to a “Super-Syrah Sipping evening”. Buy some of the wines from my list and split the cost among the group. If one wine earns a large share of the votes, it could be worth taking orders at the party and negotiating a sharp price from a winery or retailer.
The prices below are from recent vintages and are indicative only. It pays to shop around. Use the wine-searcher.com app to find the best price and most convenient outlet.
Trinity Hill Homage Syrah, Hawke’s Bay, $150
Syrah grapes from the Gimblett Gravels sub-region were fermented with a tiny amount of the white grape viognier. The result is an intense wine with a silken texture and a hint of florals on the aroma. Collectors and investors please note: this is a classic Kiwi syrah that will repay cellaring for 20 years or more.
Kusuda Syrah, Martinborough, $110
Vibrant, high-energy wine with a core of bright berry-fruit flavours balanced by fine, peppery tannins. Delicately aromatic with floral and cherry scents that are joined by fresh herb, black pepper, dark chocolate, dark berry, and spicy oak tones. Vibrant wine with impressive purity.
Craggy Range Le Sol Syrah, Hawke’s Bay, $170
The flagship wine from a leading producer. Powerful wine that is built for the long haul with an impressive structure of fine, ripe, powdery tannins that perfectly balance fruit sweetness. Inky, intense colour with great aroma depth and flavours suggesting cassis, dark-fleshed plum, dark chocolate, black pepper, violets and concentrated berries.
Smith & Sheth CRU Heretaunga Syrah, Hawke’s Bay, $40
Powerful, youthful wine that cries out for a few years' bottle age, and a little aeration when first opened. Deeply tinted, intense syrah with cassis, ripe cherry/berry, pepper, cacao powder and a subtle floral influence. A great buy at this price – collectors and investors please note.
Batch Winery Thomas Legacy Syrah, Waiheke, $75
Dense, intense syrah with cassis, violet, red rose, blackberry, cherry and nutty oak flavours. The appealing texture and lingering finish are impressive.
Fromm Syrah Fromm Vineyard, Marlborough, $85
Concentrated yet elegant syrah with plum compote, coffee/mocha, black pepper and spicy oak flavours. Sweetness from fruit and alcohol are nicely balanced by fruity acidity and gentle tannins. Complex wine with a lingering finish.
Esk Valley Hillside Syrah, Hawke’s Bay, $89.99
Intense, dense and silken-textured red with blackcurrant, cassis, cacao powder and a hint of oyster shell. Delicious wine that overwhelms the senses, particularly if it is aerated. A great candidate for the cellar.
Māwhitipana Estate Syrah, Waiheke, $100
Elegant, vibrant, high energy and concentrated syrah with cassis, mint, dried berries, cacao powder, mocha and spicy French oak flavours supported by lively acidity and sweet, ripe tannins. Youthful wine with obvious cellaring potential.
Te Motu Kuikui Syrah, Waiheke, $225
When I last tasted this wine, in 2016, I suggested it might be at its peak. I was clearly wrong. It is certainly showing forest-floor, Bovril and bottle-age characters and is delicious (if you like bottle-aged red wine, which I do). Cedar, old books, old leather and Christmas cake flavours. A real treat.
Paritua Syrah, Hawke’s Bay, $50
Dense, fruity syrah with cassis, blackcurrant, dark chocolate, liquorice, black pepper, and spicy oak flavours. Surprisingly accessible wine that should develop well with bottle age. Youthful and vigorous, with energy and power.
