Crème de la crème
By my count, the 2020 McArthur Ridge Southern Tor Pinot Noir has scored three gold medals, three trophies and at the 2022 NZ International Wine Show earned Matt Connell the top winemaker award. That makes it the most successful pinot noir of 2022, and BusinessDesk's pick for wine of the year.
It is a great buy at the recommended price of $39.99. Even better at First Glass Wines & Spirits in Takapuna, Auckland, where you can pick it up for just $33.99 while stocks last.
McArthur Ridge is just north of Alexandra. They first planted 15 hectares of vines in 2002 and by 2007 had established a sizeable 175 hectares of vineyards in the world’s most southerly wine district.
2020 McArthur Ridge Southern Tor Pinot Noir, Central Otago, $39.99
A taut, sinewy, high-energy wine that is surprisingly accessible and smooth textured, with a mix of plum, cherry, floral/violet, savoury, fresh herbs and new leather tones. Delicious now but with the potential to develop further with bottle age. Complex pinot noir.
A hedonist’s dream
There are two types of wine drinkers in this world: hedonists and hoarders.
Hedonists have trouble keeping their hands off precious bottles that should really be held for a few years to enjoy them at their best. I am a hedonist.
Hoarders, on the other hand, can’t bear to open wines even if they are in decline.
A growing number of wine producers are coming to the rescue of hedonists by releasing mature wines which are approaching peak condition.
For a relatively modest premium, hedonists can now experience the joy of tasting wines that have mellowed and become, to me at least, more interesting.
Marlborough winery Greywacke has just released three wines from the excellent 2015 vintage under its “archive release” label. They are highly recommended.
2015 Greywacke Archive Release Wild Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, $58.80
It makes sense to re-release bottle-aged wines. The winery gets to demonstrate how well the wines have responded to bottle age and gains a premium price to compensate for the costs of holding back stock.
In this case, the premium on the original selling price is about $20 and the original 95-point wine has gained an extra point. In fact it is delicious. Who says that sauvignon doesn’t improve with bottle age?
2015 Greywacke Archive Release Chardonnay, Marlborough, $54
Mellow, integrated chardonnay with toast, grapefruit, white peach, vanilla, hazelnut and spicy oak flavours. It is hard to compare the wine against a tasting note made on its first release – they are significantly different, but neck and neck as far as quality is concerned.
2015 Greywacke Archive Release Pinot Noir, Marlborough, $58.80
Intense, mellow pinot noir with emerging savoury bottle-age character beginning to offer an interesting contrast to cassis/blackberry, plum and other primary fruit flavours. Seductively silken texture. I think this wine has improved in the past 7-8 years.
A Hawke’s Bay hero
I spent some of my Christmas break on holiday with my family (11 of us!) in Hawke’s Bay. It confirmed my view that the region has NZ’s best wine trail – great winery restaurants, an exciting range of often-adventurous wines, and hospitable cellar doors that make visitors feel truly welcome.
Now is a great time to visit the Bay. Most wineries are well stocked with wines from the great 2021 vintage that are mostly available to taste.
It is hard to pick a favourite from so many serious contenders but I was particularly impressed by the red wines from Beach House, especially its syrah and cabernet franc, which at $40 are both bargains.
2021 Beach House Syrah, Hawke’s Bay, $40
Aromatic syrah with violet/floral, dark berry, cassis, vanilla and subtle spice flavours. It has a silken, almost pinot noir-like texture with appealing purity. Charming wine that can be enjoyed in its youth or allowed to develop a little bottle age. Seamless wine with subtle power.
2021 Beach House Cabernet Franc, Hawke's Bay, $40
Medium-bodied, elegant and supple red with raspberry, floral/red rose, cacao powder and fresh herb flavours supported by fine, ripe and peppery tannins. This wine strengthens my belief that cabernet franc has a great future in Hawke’s Bay.