It’s been open for just six weeks, but Bivacco Bar & Griglia is steadily building a loyal patronage of Aucklanders fond of indulgent lunches and decadent dinners.
Its location, on prime Viaduct real estate, can’t really get much better – particularly if you like ocean views, sitting outside in all-day sun, and a buzzy atmosphere. I've ticked all three boxes here.
Plonking the Italian restaurant on the site of the former Headquarters bar was the idea of the Savor Group, for whom Bivacco is a welcome stablemate for its upmarket but relaxed Amano, Ebisu and Movida eateries in the city’s Britomart precinct. So, right away, the place has street cred.
Unfussy nature
Head chef Ryan Moore, whom Savor poached from The Grove restaurant, has largely stuck to what makes those other establishments tick, creating a lively, classy environment, an unpretentious menu and an essentially open-plan kitchen.
Oh, and a generous bar area and cocktail options.
Bivacco’s unfussy nature is signalled in the name, which translates to "camping", related to the more familiar term "bivouac".
Yet Moore’s menu is extensive, boasting a vast array of antipasti dishes with marinated olives and shaved white asparagus with parmesan competing with kingfish crudo with cucumber, green chilli and a roasted garlic dressing.
With enough seating for 300 customers, Bivacco is also serious competition for the nearby Soul Bar & Bistro for the long-lunch brigade.
A taste of Tuscany
My wife and I opted for a latish dinner principally because there was an available table. Our booking was for a Monday at 8.15pm. We were on time.
After being told our table wasn’t quite ready for us, we happily trotted off to the ample veranda bar to sample the beverage options.
This is an area of the restaurant that isn’t really that far removed from the HQ version, but it does work – and the house spritzes should prove to be a hit with the discerning waterfront summer audience.
Leading from the front are a traditional Aperol, an elderflower and mint-dominated Hugo and the mojito-inspired Island Time, a sweet rum, lime and cucumber-dominated cocktail.
Karen kicked off proceedings with an Elena Walch Pinot Bianco and I had an on-tap Peroni.
It became apparent about 45 minutes in that we had been forgotten about, but that did allow us the time to peruse a wine list that extends to seven pages, with the cheapest of the 102 bottles – the Braida Moscato d’Asti dessert wine (375ml) – selling for $60.
The most expensive was a $2,500 bottle of Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Masseto out of Tuscany – possibly designed to appeal to investment bankers trying to spend their bonuses.
Textures
Pleasingly, there is also an ample range of wine by the glass – 34 options in total, including Moet & Chandon champagne at $25 a pop for those special occasions, or just because.
We opted for a couple of glasses of Gigi Rosso Fattorie Parri from Tuscany, at $15 each, and I stuck with that through the meal. (I later ordered a case of it for Christmas.)
The restaurant area, which we eventually got to well after 9pm, features dark timber, deep-green textures and marble and is designed to create a sense of privacy, despite its size, through the use of booths.
Rich tones and an intimate setting. (Image: Savor)Service by this point was prompt and our server was knowledgeable. Plus, our first drink rounds were on the house, as a way of apologising for the forgetfulness of the hostess.
It was well worth the wait.
Chilled seafood plate. (Image: Savor)We started with a half dozen oysters from Waiheke’s Te Matuku Bay ($36) and a beef carpaccio ($29). The oysters were superb, but I wasn’t as big a fan of the carpaccio, which was overwhelmed by its truffle, wild garlic and pickled mushroom plate fellows.
Oysters with an Italian vinaigrette – a refreshing starter. (Image: BusinessDesk) Pasta is fasta
Karen, however, had no such qualms about her main – braised lamb agnolotti with sheep’s milk ricotta, zucchini and mint. I opted for the scampi mafaldine, bisque and black pepper sauce, which was lovely – though the pasta erred on the side of being underdone.
Executive chef Chris Rendell. (Image: BusinessDesk)Even at that time of the evening, there were still families in attendance and the bar was buzzing, so there were pizzas aplenty heading out, eliciting some order envy from our table. They're certainly an option for a more casual snack at the bar next time.
We finished the meal sharing an excellent olive-oil ice cream with salted white chocolate and basil, and I had to try the Bivacco version of a godfather – scotch blended with amaretto and orange. I would have enjoyed it, too, had it not been for the exuberance of our server in snaffling it away half finished while I was chatting to the chef.
$288 for two (tip included).
Where: 115 Customs Street West, Auckland.
Hours: 11am to late, 7 days.
Phone: (09) 801-6505.
Website: savor.co.nz/bivacco
