Bloody Mary’s isn’t a particularly new feature on the culinary landscape. It doesn’t have a rooftop bar. And it's not about haute cuisine, or vegan or gluten-free inventions.

What it is, though, is a guaranteed damn fine meal in an unpretentious, central-city location with as complex a selection of drams as you’ll find anywhere outside of Scotland.

And it is a credit to Great Britain, to where the steakhouse, brasserie and bar looked for inspiration before it opened its doors in late 2013 in Christchurch’s Latimer Square.

Bloody Mary’s may have a reputation for its tomato-based cocktails – so much so that it actually offers them at its breakfast bar – but it's actually named after the English queen Mary I. 

That devoutly Roman Catholic lady was nicknamed bloody Mary because of her five-year reign of terror (1553-58) during which several hundred Protestants were burned at the stake for heresy.

Plush leather and a warm ambience put diners at ease. (Image: EVT)

The life of bishop Hugh Latimer – after whom the Christchurch square is named – was similarly cut short (bloody Mary strikes again), making him one of three Oxford martyrs of Anglicanism.  

But despite its nod to a disturbing and violent period in history, Bloody Mary’s – part of the Rydges Latimer hotel and a finalist in this year's Hospitality NZ excellence awards – is something of a refuge from the daily noise and turmoil of inner-city life and work. 

First up, guests are met with a rather intimidating medieval guard stationed at the entrance. You suspect there's someone deep inside the suit of steel looking out at you, but once you get past him, you’re rewarded with an ample area that boasts deep leather seats and a dark and moody decor. 

The outside terrace is similarly well appointed, with swivel chairs and rustic bar leaners. 

Private dining is a thing at Bloody Mary's. (Image: EVT)

But it was to Hugh’s whisky library that a small, select group of us gravitated to on arrival, courtesy of hotel managers Entertainment Ventures Travel (EVT).

EVT is an Australian company which owns the Rydges, QT and Atura hotel brands and the Event, BCC and CineStar cinemas. It understands that, as in the movies, restaurants need to have a sense of drama. 

 The tomato-based cocktails are popular even at the breakfast bar. (Image: BusinessDesk)

The whisky library and attached restaurant have plenty of it. The library might once have been called a smoking room. It is clearly a place where important decisions are made (the Crusaders rugby team are regular guests) so most of us felt inclined to whisper. 

Its whisky collection is also legendary, though much of it is kept under lock and key as many of the bottles are stored on behalf of their private owners. Fair enough.

I avoided a pre-dinner whisky, however, opting for the house favourites – in this case a bloody martini, which is celery-infused gin, vermouth, tomato juice, lemon and chilli salt. I may have had two. 

It proved a perfect and rather spicy warm-up to what was about to come: the Canterbury feast – a true sampler of the best from the region's farms.

Vegetarians and vegans weren’t in abundance at our table. That was lucky, although there was a non-meat champion in the mix: heirloom tomato bruschetta with salsa verde, whipped ricotta, pickled red onion and balsamic. It was delicious. 

The butcher's board is a menu mainstay, available for two. (Image: EVT)

The slow-braised lamb croquettes were crunchy and hearty, but the true star of the entrée show was the smoked Akaroa salmon, which was served with citrus and fennel slaw. 

I could have eaten just that all night, but the plates were whisked away with efficiency born of running a perpetually humming kitchen.

Next, in came an angus beef roast sirloin, braised merino lamb shoulder and an extravagant selection of seasonal vegetables, multi-coloured fresh carrots, potatoes and a liberal mix of sauces.

Pièce de résistance

EVT general manager of hotel operations Simon White said most of the diners at Bloody Mary’s – about 80% – were not actually staying in the Rydges Latimer. 

Part of the reason it draws in so many non-hotel guests is the relaxed, unassuming nature of the place and its ethos of unobtrusive service. 

That's even when rolling out the restaurant’s pièce de résistance, its chateaubriand – 600 grams of Canterbury angus beef with wagyu-fat roasted potatoes, broccoli & béarnaise, port wine, thyme and horseradish. 

That comes at $129 for two.

It's worth it, for the sheer drama alone.

Bloody Mary's,
30 Latimer Square,
Christchurch Central.
bloodymarys.co.nz
(03) 943 5937
Hours: Mon-Fri 6am to 10pm; Sat-Sun 7am to 10pm