At the door of the new Cassia restaurant in SkyCity Auckland, everything is sparkling. 

Strings of lights sparkle, Chand Sahrawat’s glamorous dress is sparkling, and so are her eyes.

But when she tells me how we come to be in this place on this day, a dark shadow crosses her face.

When Auckland flooded, there were 70 diners at Cassia, the two-hatted gorgeous restaurant she and chef husband Sid set up in the basement of a downtown laneway.

Water got into the dining room and was rushing beneath the kitchen hands' feet as they worked; fearing someone would be electrocuted, Sid reluctantly evacuated the guests.

“I couldn’t believe it,” says Chand. “We were sweeping out the water and people were still showing up for their bookings in the pouring rain; they were still keen to come in.”

That’s because of the formidable reputation of this showcase of modern Indian cuisine. No one wanted to cancel. When would they ever be able to get a table again?

The Sahrawats kept the spirit of Cassia but moved the location to higher ground. (Image: Babiche Martens)

Sid and Chand didn’t want to close, but when the restaurant flooded a second time, Chand said no, they were not prepared to put their team and their reputation through this again.

Then, across the industry there was magic happening. 

Sean Connolly’s The Grill had vacated its high-profile Federal Street space next to the SkyCity hotel doors. 

SkyCity chief executive Michael Ahearne had heard about the chaos at Cassia. He was looking for another high-end food offering. 

Velvet upholstery and striking lighting hint at the mix of the traditional and the modern. 
(Image: Babiche Martens)

The Sahrawats said they were not interested unless the restaurant could be open again within weeks. Their staff were like family to them, so losing them was not an option.

Last Wednesday, Cassia threw open the doors to its new home and all the same faces were there serving and in the kitchen. 

Incredible achievement

Ahearne tells me that’s incredible – to keep all the team, at a time when staff shortages are an ongoing nightmare for the hospitality industry.

He says Cassia is part of SkyCity’s post-covid growth strategy. Covid had hit the business hard. 

“Other businesses could go online,” he says. “But our business is all about getting people into venues, to eat, to stay the night, to game.”

Taste buds challenged

The hotel is at 70% occupancy, still down on its pre-covid 80%, but improving. Ahearne senses a movement back to in-real-life experiences, as the hospitality industry flickers back into life itself. 

In Federal Street, the lights sparkle as invited guests sip champagne and sample hors d’oeuvres that challenge the taste buds. 

A feast at Cassia features old favourites and new treats to try. (Image: Babiche Martens)

The pani puri, potato, chickpea and mint is a pastry shell brimming with mint syrup. The Te Matuku oyster pakoras are delicious and were swept off the platter.

We move from the colourful courtyard into the elegant new Cassia. I’m tucked into a velvet booth upstairs as the plates start to arrive for our opening-night banquet.

The Goan lamb chops with spiced cream cheese arrive first, as they should. They are the signature dish.

“Our lamb chops are legendary. We can’t take them off the menu!” says Sid. They’re crunchy outside, crusted in seeds and spices, and pink and tender inside.

Here you'll find your favourites of the Fort Lane days, he says, but mixed with a few new twists.

The vegetarian star is the roasted carrot, vindaloo-style, elevating the chunky carrot to celebrity status.

The tandoori chicken lababdar and radish is an old friend, laid on perfect rice. We add slabs of the famous garlic naan and sigh with appreciation.

Roasted cauliflower korma with ginger and almonds turns out to be golden and savoury.

It’s fare that defines this talented couple, still at the peak of the Indian experience in Auckland.

And it sparkles.