For such a lauded destination as The Farm at Cape Kidnappers, its entrance is surprisingly humble.
A wooden sign directs you inland up a long and winding road – 6km, to be exact. Rolling countryside gives way to expansive views out to the coast as you make your way. There may be times you think you’ve taken a wrong turn. Persist. There’s gold in these hills.
The lodge sits high and proud, overlooking a vast expanse of land. More than 2,000 hectares in all, divided into parcels of native forest, paddocks dotted with sheep and cattle, and a world-class golf course.
It all ends abruptly at Cape Kidnappers – a high, splendidly jagged cliff line from which your view tumbles down into the big blue of the Pacific Ocean.
Pleasant and convivial
But back to the lodge. Our welcome party is waiting as we pull into the parking circle. I apologise for the lateness of our arrival, which is brushed off with good grace. Bags are loaded onto a buggy and whisked away. Hugo, the amiable parking valet, takes charge of the motor, and all that’s left to do is make our entrance.
We are greeted and introduced and accept glasses of champagne. It’s all very pleasant and convivial – a bit like arriving at a wealthy friend’s place for the weekend.
Artworks by Colin McCahon, Toss Woollaston and Dick Frizzell adorn the walls, jostling for attention against a plate painted by Picasso and a leather sofa from the home of actors Bruce Willis and Demi Moore, pre-divorce.
The view from The Farm at Cape Kidnappers. (Image: Greg Haver)
There’s a wonderful round tower room with excellent and slightly wacky acoustics – such fun.
Guests here enjoy a wine cellar and private tasting room, a heated pool for year-round swimming, a world-class spa and a state-of-the-art gym.
Opened in 2007 as part of the Robertson luxury lodges portfolio, The Farm has 22 suites and a four-bedroom Owner's Cottage, which US-based chief executive Jay Robertson and his family use on a semi-regular basis.
Stamp of approval
Our own accommodation for the weekend is a Ridge suite. It’s spacious and gracious – rural luxe, par excellence. It’s easy to see why this place has the gold-standard Relais & Châteaux stamp of approval.
Everything here is expensive and understated. The decor, by US interior designer Linda Bedell, doffs its hat to the working farm it sits within – a palette of browns, creams, stone and marble.
Bed is h-u-g-e
There are vintage tractor seats on the wall above the bedhead, and around the room are framed black and white photographs of the farm animals (one photo is on hinges and cleverly hides the television set).
The bed is vast – a super, super king, big enough and comfortable enough to get lost in for days.
There’s a very civilised dressing room, a lovely big bathroom with two vanities, a rain shower, and a bathtub by the window, affording views for miles.
But the best thing is the porch – a place of private and quiet contemplation, where you can sit and admire the view, morning coffee in hand, while pīwakawaka dart about and sing their hearts out.
The veranda of the Ridge suite is private and ideal for contemplating nature. (Image: Jacqui Loates-Haver)
The true beauty of this place lies in its splendid isolation. The land tumbles joyfully off in all directions; the air is keen. It’s an easy place to abandon the general stresses of life.
Even the presence of other guests is, well, nice, as you pass them on a walking track during the day or have a convivial chat over an aperitif before dinner.
Drinking and dining
I discovered The Farm’s executive chef, James Honore, is a man of few words. He saves the magic for his recently refurbished kitchen, where he creates world-class dishes, which change daily and are something to behold, using what’s in season from the farm and fresh local produce.
We sat down on our first evening to line-caught parore with kūmara, tatsoi, mint salad and mala sauce, and steak done just so with a side of Agria baby potatoes and roast broccoli with sherry vinegar dressing. I couldn’t muster the strength to say no to the verjus poached pear dessert – spoonfuls of soft, fruity sweetness with a hint of tang. Beautiful.
I suggest bagging a table in the glass-fronted loggia near the open fire if it’s a chilly night and giving yourself over to the five-course tasting menu – with wine matches, of course.
Where the wild things are
Many people come to The Farm for the golf because the Tom Doak-designed 71-par course is one of the best in the world with its undulating greens and ocean views, with gannets freewheeling in the sky. But if that’s all you’re there for, you’d be missing a trick.
Cooking classes, wine tastings, walking tracks, a gannet colony visit, a Can-Am offroader tour of the property and shepherding experiences – the list is exhaustive.
Kākā at Cape Kidnappers Sanctuary. (Image: Jacqui Loates-Haver)
The jewel in this particular crown, though, has to be the three-hour Cape Sanctuary Experience. A tour through this land of plenty and all the wildlife it offers is a life-affirming way to spend a morning.
The Robertson family have invested heavily in turning a vast tract of this land into a near-predator-free zone.
The payoff is birdsong like you’ve never heard. The dawn chorus here is astonishing – a concerto led by the tūīs. It’s a beautiful thing.
Tuatara, kākā, kakariki, the North Island robin, tomtits, petrels, the eastern brown kiwi and, of course, the famous gannets – all make their home here.
This is a special place, good for the soul. Hand on heart, it could be the best luxury lodge stay in Aotearoa. Leaving was indeed a bit of a wrench.
I’ll be back. Who knows when, but it’s a comforting thought.
● The writer was a guest of Robertson Lodges. For more information and room tariffs, visit https://www.robertsonlodges.com/the-lodges/cape-kidnappers
