The French know how to eat, relax, and enjoy life. In Noumea, they’ve created a little piece of Parisian-style paradise.
A shopping bag holding a stylish pair of Parisienne heels, lunch at a bistro in the park and an afternoon picnic of baguettes with brie and saucisson sec.
Am I Emily in Paris? Non, non, monsieur.
I’m not 24 hours away in Europe, I’m in New Caledonia, just three hours’ flying on an Aircalin jet after dropping the car at the valet parking booth at Auckland Airport.
It's not a frigid three degrees Celsius as it would be on the Champs Elysees, it’s a balmy 26C in Noumea and I’m wearing a new beachy halter-neck dress with a distinctly Parisian label.
At a parkside bistro where we sip wine under a striped awning, the Maître D’ brings a salad and a croque monsieur. With a wink, she waves the salad past my husband. “The salad for you, sir, of course!”
Quel horreur! Of course, it isn’t for him. The cheesy, ham and bechamel-sizzled sandwich is his.
When you can’t – or don’t want to – travel to France, New Caledonia is our closest substitute.
Sophisticated in an island kind of way, the cluster of islands the locals call 'New Cal’ offers the food, style and luxury you’d expect from the French, but with palm trees and white sand.
We’ve been coming here on and off for 30 years, since the Chateau Royal hotel was run by Club Med and drinks were negotiated in beads. Start with a necklace, end the holiday with a ring.
Now it’s never been better. There’s a charming new boulevard all along the main Anse Vata beach, and a new curve of sand stretching along the bay.
New Zealand infrastructure bosses could learn a lot from the New Caledonians. Each day we stayed, we saw 20 workmen adding a five-metre stretch to the wide walkway, preparing a base, then laying and grouting the Mediterranean-style pavers.
By the time we ended our nine-day break, the boulevard was almost complete, inviting passers-by with thatched picnic tables and to sit under the original trees reinstated and flourishing.
This new beach is tantalisingly opposite one of the apartment hotels where we’ve stayed – The Hilton Noumea La Promenade.
But this time we went back to the Chateau Royal, now transformed into luxurious one- and two-bedroom apartments with generous balconies stretching the length of the suite and overlooking a charming beach.
Our suite overlooked the bay of Anse Vata. In the morning, the glimmering sea invited us, at night sparkling lights past the overwater restaurant Le Roof and beyond lured us out to dine and dance.
Unexpectedly, the kitchen in our suite turned dinnertime into an adventure. Some days, we bought food from the supermarkets, cooked our own steaks and fresh vegetables, and found a delicatessen offering restaurant-quality classics like boeuf Bourguignon and ratatouille.
We jumped on a bus into the city to pick up the latest trends in European summer fashion, from charming boutiques and Australian brands to department stores that stretch for a block.
Part of the city is filled with the usual tourist fare, but don’t stop there. Press on to the more sophisticated side of town where you’ll find quality French shoes and women’s suits from Italy, designer labels, decor stores and perfumeries.
On this trip, we’re revisiting old favourites as a birthday treat – the provincial-style restaurant Le Miretti-Gascon, which feels as though you’re dining in someone’s front room, the waterfront Code Bar with its Latin music and live entertainment, and Le Bilboquet Plage for classics.
So far for us, New Cal has been mainly about the beaches, the food and the lifestyle, with a hike or two. But its secret is that it also offers action-packed holidays for all ages, great breezes for windsurfing, city beaches to swim along, golf courses, horse-riding, and snorkelling in the clear 24,000-square-metre lagoon.
For adults or children learning French, you can find immersion courses in the language, paired with museum and cultural visits.
Our next plan is to rent a car and drive around the whole main island, popping into resorts and villages, meeting the locals, and discovering forests and bays. And we’re excited about the new Intercontinental Hotel opening soon on Lifou Island, a quick domestic flight away.
As we make our plans and end our lunch, we pay and head off. As we pass the Maître D', she smiles, and my husband returns the wink: “That was the best salad I ever had.”
For more info, visit www.newcaledonia.travel/nz
